Passing Through the Učka Tunnel
ISTRIA
Home of truffles and Malvasia
As soon as you pass through the tunnel of mighty Učka, you will feel the charm of the green heart of Croatia.
There is something about Istria that feels just right, something mild, calm, soothing. And its delights are like that: real, top-notch, but not at all exalted. No wine, no wine lovers, no gourmands scream here, everything is quiet, pleasant, relaxed, no loud laughter, just a pleasant smile. There are a lot of Dalmatians very often in these parts.
The History of Istrian Wine
They come to take a break from their bursting temperament, to rest from their noisy, juicy Mediterranean, to indulge in different flavors and aromas. And so the gangs of Dalmatians visit the green hills and Istrian wine cellars from one toprated Malvasia to another.
Namely, Istrian Malvasia has never been as good as in the last 20 years, thanks to the young winemakers who are very passionate about it. And the long history of wine started, they say, 2000 years ago, when the Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius brought grapevine here.
The wine story of Istria is, like in most of the world - red and white. In addition to Malvasia, the "white" part includes excellent varieties of Chardonnay, Muscat (Momjan), Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignon. Of course, it depends on your preferences, but whichever you order, you will hardly go wrong.
The red wine story begins with the inevitable Teran - an old Istrian indigenous variety that was first mentioned more than 600 years ago. There are also Muscat red (taste the one from Poreč), Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and two indigenous varieties from the region - Borgonja and Refnošk.
Truffle metropolis
You will taste Istrian Malvasia - an icon of modern and traditional Istria in cellars, but also top restaurants and taverns all over Istria. And there are few places where you will eat like here. And with a top-quality Malvasia you will regularly discover new variations of dishes with truffles. And Istria is the metropolis of truffles.
You will discover them wandering along the shallow and calm Mirna river, through the mighty old oak forests near Motovun. Old oaks hide a secret about Veli Joža and truffles. The impressive, large and dense Motovun forest, which has long grown along the Mirna river, hides real gold - the high-priced white and black truffles.
This imperial delicacy is the spice, the smell, and the taste of the best dishes of Istria, which, among other things, is called the metropolis because the world's largest white truffle was found here by a truffle picker Giancarlo Zigante. That is how Istria ended up in the Guinness Book of Records. And that's why they will offer you everything there: a guided hunt for truffles, tasting in an elite restaurant, accommodation, and a story about truffles-
Summer Nights in Istria
Connoisseurs agree: truffles are the pinnacle of gastronomy. Only specially trained dogs manage to find tubers under old oaks. Istrian white truffle is one of the most prized in the world, and on the hills along the river Mirna, there is more and more black truffle. Truffles are said to be an aphrodisiac and have been considered an enigma and the king of the table since ancient Rome.
When you have enjoyed enough of truffles, move on. Istria, the Mediterranean closest to the heart of Europe, awaits you with hundreds of other wonders. Wander from Grožnjan to Višnjan, from Vodnjan to Buje, and then to Plovanija, Roč, Hum, Žminj - trust me, you will not regret it.
Each place has its own story, its delicacy, its special atmosphere. You won't regret it if you get stuck in a viewpoint tavern in Hum, the smallest town in the world, until late at night. The silence of a summer night, a plate of homemade pizza, a glass of Istrian Malvasia, and a pleasant chat, will remain in your memory as a serenity to be repeated.
| 1. Istra/ Igor Seler | 2. Truffles and pljukanci/ Maja Danica Pečanić | 3. Žminj/ Igor Zirojević
Cycling Through Istria: Forests, Hills, and the Sea
1. Bella Vista Trail (Labin)
The name of the trail speaks for itself, so be sure to choose this route on a clear day, because otherwise, you will be sorry for not being able to take better photos or enjoy spectacular views at almost every step of the trail. It is 33 kilometers long, and the start is in the old town of Labin. It leads across Gora Glušići and small villages, all the way to Skitača. From there, the trail turns back towards Labin, and along the coast returns to the town. It is moderately demanding, and the surface is excellent. 23 kilometers of asphalt, and the rest is a wellmaintained macadam road.
2. On the Hermit's Trail and Sculptures of Dušan Džamonja (Vrsar and Funtana)
Since the west coast of Istria is quite flat and therefore less demanding here you can take more trails, ride more kilometers and see more. When it comes to Vrsar and Funtana, be sure to visit the two trails which form one larger loop trail with many attractions. The first is called On the Hermit's Trail, it is 9.5 kilometers long and leads from the monastery of St. Michael in the village of Kloštar above the Lim Canal to Vrsar. Connected to it is the Trail of sculptures by the famous artist, which is 9 kilometers long and goes from Vrsar to Funtana and Dušan Džamonja sculpture park, to the Agrolaguna wine road in Funtana and back to Vrsar. Both trails have a macadam surface, they are well maintained with many rest areas and benches.
3. Parenzana (Inland Istria)
I have passed many roads, trails, and paths in Istria. Each has something to capture your attention. Churches, Roman archeological remains, beautiful vistas, vineyards, olive groves, but none of them takes the breath away like the Parenzana. It is difficult to describe the beauty of the landscape through which this trail passes, a former narrow-gauge railway line that has not been used for a hundred years. You simply have to come here and experience it. The scent, the view, the colors, the tranquility, the impressive views of the most beautiful, small Istrian towns.
The trail is 80 kilometers long, and it leads from Plovanija through Buje and Grožnjan to Livade and Motovun, then it ascends to Vižinada and continues to Poreč. 78 kilometers of the trail is macadam road. My suggestion for those who want to take a lot of photos and cycle a little less is to start from Livade. Start on a road that runs parallel to the main road in the direction of Buje. It is a wide and pleasant macadam road that leads through the lowlands to Ponte Porton.