The Split fish market, or peškarija, is a luxurious exhibition of the wealth of the Adriatic Sea. It is a cult location where the inhabitants of Split, bargaining in a typical Dalmatian ritual of supply and demand, dependent on the availability of fish and shellfish, create the daily menu to be served for lunch or dinner.
6 All the best and most indigenous from the Spli t r egi on, from the sea and the wealth of islands, to the continental hinterland, used to end up on the tables of Split. The return process did not fail: refined cooking, as part of the civic culture of Split, had its impact on rural cuisine, enriching it with new and sophisticated recipes.
A sequence of magnificent islands close to Split, from Šolta and Brač to Vis and Hvar, together with the Split hinterland with its natural wealth and diversity, have contributed to the development of one of the most charming cities of the Mediterranean, full of valuable monuments. Consequently, it became the peak of gastronomic culture which has been developing since the Roman era. As an important part of the heritage of civilisation, this gastronomic culture has obeyed high criteria and imperial demands. Today, when the Croatian coast and islands are increasing as a tourist world star, it satisfies ambitious tourist expectations and needs.
To understand the Mediterranean culture at the table, it is necessary to go back into the past, at least for a moment.
In the history of civilisations, the Roman Empire, among other things, is remembered for its luxurious gastronomic culture of a powerful empire, which took the best parts of the cuisine from the countries it conquered. This is particularly true for the eastern Roman provinces, where gastronomy was on a much higher level than the western European provinces of the empire. Legendary feasts at the Roman Court are still visualised when speaking of gastronomic luxury or when wanting to warn of the dangers threatening those who are immoderate in consumption of food and drink.
Considering this historical aspect, it is then clear that the Roman Emperor Diocletian did not choose Split to build his magnificent palace there, just by chance more than 1700 years ago. The palace now represents one of the most important late Roman monuments and the current cultural and historic core of the Dalmatian metropolis.
Vis: Lobster and Crab Delicacies
All that is best and most autochthonous from the surroundings of Split, used to end up on its tables, but it also created a return process: refined cooking, as part of the civic culture of Split, had its impact on rural cuisine, enriching it with new and sophisticated recipes.
The biggest attraction of all for many tourists will be the visit to the picturesque fish market in the old part of the city, where all the wealth of the Adriatic Sea is exhibited during the morning hours. Lovers of fish, crabs, shells and mollusc will sometimes start an uncontrolled and thoughtless spending spree, simply difficult to resist.
The fish market or peškarija is a place where, depending on the daily offer, the daily menu is created. The peškarija promotes the typical Dalmatian ritual of supply and demand and bargaining, and the fishermen at the stone counters proudly exhibit their impressive catch.
Next to the peškarija, there is a cult restaurant Nostromo, where everything you see in the market, gets prepared in innovative and creative ways. The breadth of the gastronomic offering in Split includes locations with a traditional menu (the Hvar wine cellar), and also an extended Dalmatian cuisine, retaining substantial principles of its tradition (the Adriatic Grašo).
The culture of eating in the Split part of Dalmatia is founded on a firm connection with the sea, continuity of a gastronomic heritage, which is transferred from one generation to another, and on a strong belief in healthy food coming from the hinterland. Whether it is dory, sea bass, scorpion fish, dentex, or grilled gilthead, octopus, squid, cuttlefish, bouillabaisse, or fish soup, crabs, shells, salted anchovies or grilled mackerel, the menus of Split are dominated by the largest variety of sea food. Equally appreciated is the lamb on rotisserie, or under a clay or steel dish, stewed beef (pašticada) with gnocchi, arambašići (a type of kebab) from Sinj, deep fried frog legs, snails au gratin, prosciutto and bacon of the Cetinjska Krajina, boiled vegetables with excellent olive oils from the islands-
Each island in the area of Split has its own native products, recipes and unique specialities. On the Island of Brač, they will offer you vitalac lamb giblets wrapped in offal and grilled on a spit, lamb tripe or a young goat on a spit. The people from Brač will not forget to praise their excellent citrus fruits, oranges and mandarins. On the Island of Hvar, they will offer you gregada, a meal of various fish, prepared with onion, slow cooked in a clay dish. During the season, one should not miss artichoke with broad beans and biži (young peas), one of the best specialities of the Dalmatian cuisine, a method of showing who the true culinary master is.
Extremely comfortable Pojoda, with its exquisite and excellent service, is a restaurant that comes before other good restaurants in the town of Vis, on the Island of Vis. One should try the famous flat bread à la Vis (pogača). Sailors hurry to get their bargains in the morning, along with their viški hib (sweet bread), a dessert made of ground figs. The inevitable lobster with pasta, or prepared in salad is another incomparable dish, because the area of the Island of Vis is famous for their expert methods of catching this large crab. The people from the Island of Vis, the same as those from Brač, always recommend their citrus fruits, and experts claim that the lemons from Vis are the best in Dalmatia. The majority of restaurants offer stewed shells (buzara), with bread made under a clay or metal dish. Dipped into the sauce of the stew, it turns the meal into a Roman-like feast.
Those enthusiastic for peasant meals will not be able to miss the šporki makaruni (pasta titled "dirty macaroni"), or grilled seasonal vegetables, white and black risotto, fritule and kroštule. Among fruit, there are cherries and peaches from Kaštela, wild raspberry and blackberry, jujube, fresh or dry figs, paired nicely with homemade fruit brandy (Travarica) or Lozovača. A glass of fine prosecco, goes very well with the cake à la Split, a biscuit with chopped almonds, figs and raisins.
Each island in Split's local waters has its own wine to offer. The southern sides of Brač, Vis and Hvar are known for Plavac mali and the respected wineries of this area. A significant white wine is the Viška vugava (Vugava from Vis).
It is possible to taste exotic specialities in some places, such as sea eggs (meereseier), sea urchin, limpet soup, fried vlasulja (type of sea greens)- All dishes, from the peasant to the sophisticated ones, are paired with the area that produced them.
Sailors are able to reach restaurants hidden in small island bays, especially those on the favourite coastal routes around the Pakleni Islands (Meneghello, Palmižana), around Brač (Pipo in Luke bay), Vis (wine cellar in Stončica and Mala taverna), or Lastovo (wine cellar Triton in Zaklopatica). In addition to their magnificent ambience, these islandbased restaurants offer supreme sea menus.
The gastronomy of the Split area of Dalmatia is closely connected to Italian cuisine, which had a centuries-long impact on Dalmatian cuisine. Menus often offer a variety of pasta, gnocchi, tortellini, ravioli, macaroni, paštašuta, pašta fažol and other specialities with pasta. Starting in Roman times and until today the Dalmatian cuisine has preserved the most significant Mediterranean tastes and aromas, and old recipes were modernised with new culinary techniques. Millions of tourists who visit this attractive area every year are witness to this being one of the best parts of the Mediterranean Sea. One of the area's trump cards, ever since the era of Diocletian, was and still is gastronomy.
Health Benefits of Dalmatian Cuisine and Lifestyle
The city of palaces has emerged under the Marijan forest. This is a perfect place for living, based on its micro climate. A large number of sunny days, optimal wind directions and typical Mediterranean vegetation, make Split a perfect choice for vacations, but also for living. Like an incubator, this is a breeding ground of expert sportsmen, and those interested in leisure sports can live their life-long fantasies here.
On the top of the Zlatni rat beach, in Bol on the Island of Brač, two of largest tidal streams come together and thus the saying that the north and south Adriatic kiss here. Perfect winds drive the sails, but also build the waves for surfers.
Winds, which make the air endlessly clean, make a perfect backdrop for sporting activities, with a perfectly comfortable climate, allowing for sufficient time in the open. Being anywhere in Split is like being in a natural halo-room (salt room).
The influence of Mediterranean nutrition, typical of Split, is visible in the development of sport and this connection is seen from probing the chemistry of food.
The Mediterranean nutrition is rich with alkaline, which leads to faster recovery after any sporting activity and stress, which make the body acetous and prone to injury.
Local Groceries and Specialty Products
- Sour durmast oak
- Varenik (non-alcoholic nectar)
- Lobster from Lastovo
- Carob
- Chard
- Wild rabbit
- Vitalac
- Samaštrani (sort of marinade)
- tongue
- Carob cake
- Gregada (fish, shells and
- mollusc)
Wine Production in the Split Region
The region of Split is surely in one of the most important Croatian wine areas. It covers the coastal area from Trogir to Ploče, the islands of Čiovo, Šolta, Brač, Hvar and Vis, and the hinterland with the areas around Sinj, Imotski and Vrgorac. According to Croatian wine legislation, it covers a part of the vinegrowing area of middle and southeren Dalmatia and the whole area of the Dalmatian Zagora. Central Dalmatia is the area where developed ancient cultures can be found and this is the place where many varieties of Croatian and world grape-vines were born, as well as the place where the wealth of nature and civilisation of the Mediterranean is felt the most. Central Dalmatia is where some of the best Croatian wines are produced.
This area is where the start of grape-vine cultivation in Croatia started - the first record, according to all sources, is from the 2nd century before Christ, when the great Greek writer Athenaios quotes the historian Agatarhid in its Deipnosophistai (the feast of the sophists): " on the Island of Vis, at the Adriatic Sea, which makes wine better than any other it can be compared to". There is more evidence showing that central Dalmatia is the crib of wine-growing in this territory. The grapevine later spread inland, and during all those years, it played an important role in the life of its population. The significance of winegrowing in this area is illustrated also by the fact that the phenomenon of the vine-pest, a disease that destroyed the vineyards toward the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century, led to an economic crisis and the migration of people overseas.
Wine growing is a very important industry, because the natural conditions of central Dalmatia provide for production of different and very high quality wines. In recent years, there is a growing number of small producers who are changing the reputation of Dalmatian wine, largely damaged during the time of socialism. The family cellars are becoming small and medium wineries, and the use of modern technology is providing for the establishment of vineyards in excellent locations. With a large number of autochthonous varieties and the wealth of natural conditions, this area is returning to the path of its former glory, and the wines are achieving awards and attracting the interest of buyers.
Natural Conditions for Wine Production
The environmental conditions in this region are diverse due to large differences in the climate of the coastal area and islands on the one hand, and inland on the other. The average annual temperature is from around 13 °C (Sinj, Imotski) to over 16 °C (Split, Vis). There are even larger differences in rainfall. The annual average on the islands is about 750 mm, and it is much higher inland. The soil in these wine growing areas are same as in the neighbouring areas - red and brown soil on limestone, of different depths and variable rockiness.
The largest areas are found in Imotsko, Sinjsko and Vrličko fields and on the islands: Hvar and Vis. Large areas have been cultivated in the coastal area in recent years. White varieties are dominant in this area, and the wines have different characteristics, due to the significant impact of a colder, continental climate. The islands mostly grow red varieties, and the famous, sea-facing positions often grow only plavac mali. Significant among those locations are Ivan Dolac and Sveta Nedjelja, on the southern side of the Island of Hvar, and Bol on the Island of Brač, which receives additional light from the sea, as well as warmth and freshness, which regularly gives red wines of superior characteristics.
Wine Varieties and Key Producers
We find the largest number of indigenous varieties in this area, which is understandable considering the rich history and diversity of the natural conditions here. In addition, there are also foreign varieties and we can thus say that Central Dalmatia has the richest assortment of grape-vines in Croatia. Plavac mali is the undoubted leader among the red vines, and it is a proven Croatian autochthonous variety. It covers almost all of the warm, sea-facing positions, where it reaches superb quality. Its wines are intensively coloured, full and strong (alcohol is often above 15 vol%). It has a specific and striking flavour. Its supreme potential has been recognised long ago and the wines produced from plavac mali are at the top of the list of lovers of Croatian wine. There are many labels with
Plavac on the market nowadays, but the best wine from Central Dalmatia comes from the southern parts of Hvar, Brač and Vis islands. In recent years, there has been an expansion of the crljenak kaštelanski, an almost forgotten Croatian variety, known in America as Zinfandel, and as Primitivo in Italy. The DNA testing several years ago proved its Croatian origin, and it was confirmed as one of the parents of plavac mali. Historic data suggests that it was a well-known variety in Dalmatia more than five centuries ago, and its supreme characteristics are still visible today. Several producers have made the first wines of this variety, and these are usually typical southern red wines, full, with a high percentage of alcohol and with specific fruity flavours.
Merlot, cabernet, sauvignon and syrah are making excellent wines in this area, too. They are vinificated on their own or paired up in different combinations. When it comes to other red varieties, babić must not be left out, as it is an accompanying variety to plavac, as well as to plavina, or it comes in a blend with other autochthonous varieties. Still, a large number of red wines, specifically those made from vines grown in less favourable positions, are a result of pairing, because many old vineyards grow several varieties. This has been shown as favourable for the quality of the domestic wine, but has led to the preservation of the old, native varieties, too. Several of them have shown splendid characteristics as independent ones, and we today see the dobričić wine (excellent colour, large potential, one of the plavac mali parents), ninčuše, okatca (glavinuša), trnjak and babica. Other variety wines made of vranac can also be found. Vranac is grown here, and the interest for it has also been increasing in recent years. The white assortment is led by pošip, a variety which has also been proven as indigenous. In recent years it has spread all over Dalmatia. This is the result of excellent variety characteristics, because wine made of pošip is strong and full, but also fresh and flavoured, unlike many other autochthonous white wines. Vugava and bogdanuša are typical island-grown varieties, grown exclusively on the islands of Vis and Hvar, their original home. Their potential is very high and several wines produced by modern methods have already come to the attention of consumers. Kujundžuša is one of the most important varieties of the Dalmatian Zagora. It mostly comes in massproduced, cheap wine, but in recent years, with the introduction of modern technology, the image of its potential has been changing. Maraština is a type we can find in many vineyards here. It is rarely produced as a variety wine, and mostly comes in mixtures. As for the others, we need to mention trbljan (a sort intended for mass-production and lesser quality wines), zlatarica vrgorska (good potential, but rather rare), grey pinot (as the first of the pinot group of varieties planted in the Dalmatian Zagora), and the inevitable chardonnay planted usually in the hinterland, intended for the production of wine from regular harvesting and for sparkling wine. There are several other varieties with high potential, but they unfortunately rarely come to the market and when they do, they are in small quantities; i.e. Prč from the Island of Hvar, or Crljenak viški.
Central Dalmatia has many producers who play a significant role in the Croatian market, both in terms of quality and quantity. Among them, Zlatan Plenković is surely the best (Zlatan otok Inc.), from Hvar, one of the pioneers of private entrepreneurship in winegrowing.
He is best known for the wines made from plavac mali and he produces it in several categories of quality and price. He is one of the first to introduce wine from crljenak kaštelanski onto the market, and he produces several other noted wines (Zlatan otok, Pošip, Prošek, Zavala). High quality wines from the Island of Hvar are also produced by Andro Romić (Bastiana Inc, with excellent Plavac mali and the dessert vine Prošek, by Hektorovich), Carić (wine by Hvar d.o.o, producing Plavac mali called Plovac ploški, and Bogdanjuša), Duboković (a rare, expensive, but excellent wine from plavac mali, named Medvjedica and Medvid), Plančić (one of the first private producers in Croatia, who produces high quality Plavac from the area Ivan Dolac, and Bogdanuša and Parč). Among the oldest producers of the cult Hvar Plavac, there are also Badel 1962 (Ivan Dolac wine from the agricultural cooperative Svirče), and Faros wine by Dalmacijavino d.d. Producers Lipanović, Roki's and Cobo (A. Ivčević) can be singled out for Vis, with very good Vugava and Plavac wines. There are several new producers on the Island of Brač, who are distinguished firstly by Plavac mali (Baković, Plavac Murvica) and Jako Andabak (Jako Wine Inc.), which offers Pošip, together with Plavac. There are several producers in the Dalmatian Zagora - Imota Ltd. (Kujundžuša, Vranac), and Vinoplod (Cabernet sauvignon, Merlot and their brand called Carlot). Still, there is an increasing number of smaller family wineries which stand out for their quality and new products - Grabovac (very good kujundžuša, and Modro Jezero, rosé Crveno Jezero, several sparkling wines), Jerković (kujundžuša) and Opačak (Zlatarica, Trnjak). The coastal part has a number of small family wine cellars, but without any significance on the market. Dillatum (Agricultural Cooperative Kaštelacoop) can be mentioned as a cuvée of old and rare varieties from Kaštela, a wine made as the result of local communities attempting to revitalise.
Did You Know? Unique Culinary and Natural Facts
Ostrea edulis, is a rare and high quality Ston oyster whose quality cannot be compared to that of any of its ocean relatives. This type of oyster is extinct in other areas and has survived only in Morocco and Mali Ston Bay, in sea of the highest purity with the ideal proportion of salt and fresh water. Experts consider them one of greatest seafood delicacies in the world.
7 In the DUBROVN IK area which is exposed to Mediterranean, oriental and continental influences, one of the best Mediterranean cuisines has been developed, with a high contribution from seafood from the southern Dalmatian archipelago, organic vegetables from Konavle, traditional dishes from Korčula, Mljet, Elaphiti and the Nerevta area as well as meat specialties from the hinterland.
The natural resources of the Dubrovnik Riviera, Pelješac and Konavle and centurieslong tradition of Dubrovnik's civic culture, within which sophisticated cooking was developed, exposed it to various influences, from Mediterranean to Oriental, culminating in the southern Adriatic gastronomic culture ranking among the best in the Mediterranean; and the area in which it has been developed, among the most potent agronomic areas on the Adriatic.
The Ostrea edulis itself, the rare Ston oyster, would be sufficient for culinary branding of the entire region. It is extinct in other areas and survives only in Morocco and Ston Bay. Because of the biological conditions Ston Bay was declared a Sea Zone of the Highest Purity, and Ston oysters, their quality unparalleled compared with their oceanic relatives, are considered by professionals and gourmets as unique in the world.
Mali Ston Bay is exposed to the influence of the Neretva River, the mixing of fresh and sea water, strong currents and tides - all of which have a great impact on the production of shells of exceptional quality. Fans and admirers of Ston oysters served in the most natural way - raw and sprinkled with a few drops of organic lemon juice - are aware that they enjoy one of the world's rare gastronomic delicacies of unique flavour that contains and reflects all the richness of southern Dalmatia. Butarga or dried fish roe, usually from gray mullet or sea bass, formed into a thin sausage or cake, is another specialty that marks the gastro culture of southern Dalmatia. It is offered as a rare delicacy in limited quantities in some rural households on the peninsula, and only in the most prestigious restaurants.
Since the inner part of the peninsula has witnessed a rapid development of agro tourism based on the Istrian model with wine tasting offered on the Pelješac wine trails and also with an increasing supply of olive oil, an original folk cuisine, based on traditional recipes and dishes which used to be prepared by Pelješac old women, is being revived. On the farm Panorama above Orebić, dishes with truffles, first found on the peninsula, are offered. Traditional dishes based on local ingredients, especially vegetables grown in the fertile environmental conditions of Konavle, are being increasingly represented on the menus as part of the southern coast's cuisine. All those who have at least once tasted zucchini, aubergine, tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, cucumbers, potatoes and other vegetables grown in Konavle's fields, have been convinced of their exceptional quality, compared to those they are used to from standard commercial sources. In the preparation of dishes based on vegetables, Oriental influences are also identified, especially when it comes to beans, for which the local name sočiva (lentils) is used.
The most popular traditional dish of all is green menestra, prepared from dried/smoked mutton (kaštradina), dried/smoked pork and homemade sausages, combined with cabbage and potatoes, šporki makaruli made of stewed beef and pasta mixed in a large bowl. Southern Dalmatia cuisine, as well as from other parts of Dalmatia, is well-known for its rich variety of fish, shellfish, crabs and molluscs which came from the fishing areas around the southern Dalmatian islands. Mljet and Lastovo waters are famous for their lobsters while from Korčula arrive žrnovski makaroni, one of the greatest meaty delights of the southern coast, prepared from beef and homemade pasta hand-moulded in a special way around a thin stick. Recipes are a closely guarded family secret. Korčula is proud of its wine production. The most popular varieties of white wines are Pošip and Grk while Plavac Mali and Cabernet Sauvignon are the red wines. Fertile areas of Smokvica and Blato are ideal for growing fruit and vegetables and for the development of viticulture and olive growing.
The most famous dessert of the southern coast is definitely flan, egg custard with caramel sauce that is served cold, another favourite dessert being kotonjata, quince candy.
Sugared almonds (broštulani mjenduli) and arancini (orange peel cut into thin strips cooked in sugared water) are native delicacies of the southern coast which in combination with sherry or semi-dry wine are ideal for serving in relaxing moments in informal gatherings.
In close connection with the gastronomic culture is the very special viticulture, based on the Plavac Mali variety. Along the length of the Pelješac peninsula three high ridges stretch, their micro-location and micro-climate are so special that each has a specific slope, sunlight, air circulation, the composition of grey and brown sandy soil rich in minerals and other features that affect the quality of the grapes. One of the best positions is the Dingač area, on very steep slopes of the peninsula, after which the premium wine is named, the most prestigious brand of Croatian red wines.
For a more complete insight into the winegrowing areas of Pelješac, the best way is to take a tour of the wine route, a tourist route that reveals all the treasures of the interior of the peninsula and some of the finest and most prominent manicured vineyards in Dalmatia. In Konavle the autochthonous variety Malvasia is grown, which should be clearly distinguished from the Istrian Malvasia.
Along the coast of southern Dalmatia, several excellent restaurants are listed as at the peak of national cuisine. From Mali Ston (Captain's House), Korčula (LD Terace, Adio Mare), Šipan (In the Harbour at Mark's), Dubrovnik (Nautica and Sesame), the Konavoski Court (dvori) in Konavle to Cavtat (Gaul), restaurants with an excellent supply of fresh fish and crabs. Restaurants in the Konavle mountains also have a good reputation, and are especially appealing in the summer heat, when in the height of the mountain there comes a pleasant freshness, which also provides an impressive view of Cavtat, Dubrovnik and the surrounding archipelago. They are known for offering excellent lamb, veal and roast goat, grilled on gradele or baked under a bell and home-made goat cheese in olive oil.
In the western part the most famous specialty from the Neretva delta is a stew of eels and frogs; shrimps and prawns from the Neretva area are among the best, it is believed, on the Adriatic.
The fertile valley of the Neretva river, rich in water supply is a paradise for agriculture and from that area melon, watermelon, cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines, oranges, tangerines, and all kinds of vegetables arrive on the Dubrovnik Riviera.
The area along the Neretva river is also known for waterfowl, birds such as coots living in the swampy backwaters of the river, which are prepared according to hunters recipes.
The gastronomy of the Dubrovnik coast evolves in parallel with the development of tourism and each seriously prepared dish reminds us that its origin reflects the uniqueness of the southern region. That is Dubrovnik's gastronomy's greatest charm and greatest advantage over many other regions.
Health Benefits of Dalmatian Cuisine and Lifestyle
Dubrovnik and its surroundings have always been the area of trade and commerce and therefore it certainly has the most diverse cuisine in the region. Proximity of Otrant Gate and the deep quiet Dubrovnik port, through - out history, meant a break and rest for sailors, but also provisions for long journeys. Marco Polo, who was born in 1255 on Korčula, started his famous journey from there. It is thanks to the port of Dubrovnik that many plants from around the world arrived in this region with the help of sailors who have collected and brought them from their voyages. A special feature of that area is also the delta of the Neretva river. The Neretva river and the sea fed the population for centuries and brought good luck to sailors who during their long voyages could not go without food or fall sick.
Many visitors today, from all over the world, come here to acquire and take away with them their piece of good luck, just like a thou - sand years ago.
All known natural elements are dissolved in this water so that eating oysters ensures we are supplied with those elements we need only in small traces. Fish salted with sea salt (slani črnci) provides replacement of electrolytes lost due to the high temperatures. Oysters are characterized by a high mineral content and are aboundant in low molecular weight protein chains. This enable very fast energy transfer. Kotonjata is a dessert rich in pectin and beta-carotene, which usually the modern diet lacks. Eel is rich in omega 3 fatty acids.
Local Groceries and Specialty Products
- Oysters
- Eel
- Salt has plenty of micronutrients
- Dubrovnik's cheese Konavle kaštradina
- Kotonjata
- Mantala
- Salted Crnci
- Beef with sage
- Raw oysters with lemon
The Dubrovnik area belongs to the winegrowing sub-region of Central and Southern Dalmatia and it includes the coastal area from Ploče to the far south, the valley of the Neretva, the Pelješac peninsula and the islands of Lastovo, Korčula, Mljet and Elaphiti. This warmest and sunniest Croatian territory is almost entirely suitable for growing grapes, so the tradition of culti - vating them ties with the beginings of this culture's arrival on the Adriatic coast.
The rich history of the Dubrovnik Republic and its excellent links with the world have largely influenced the development of viti - culture. The new varieties of grapes and new technology were brought in so through his - tory this region was one of the most devel - oped regions in Croatia. Even now, we find a lot of vineyards around here, and many residents are directly or indirectly related to wine production. The region is known for its famous vineyards, many of the best Croatian red wines come precisely from here. For example, the first Croatian wine with protected geographical origin is the fa - mous Dingač harvested in 1961, named after the area Dingač on Pelješac, and the first white, also in the category of fine wine, was Pošip from 1967 from the island of Korčula. In recent years, there has been a major quali - tative shift in wine production, new produc - ers emerging with a modern approach and modern equipment. For example, Pelješac wines not only attract the attention of consumers, but nowdays, there are more and more producers whose roots are not connected with the peninsula. Abandoned vineyards are being recovered; new areas are being turned into vineyards, the famous in - digenous varieties are being revitalized, so, this area is certainly expected to produce even better wines. Since the main industry of the region is tourism, many manufactur - ers see this as an additional opportunity, so that wine tourism is developing intensively. To taste great Plavac Mali, Pošip or Malvasia from Dubrovnik in their native space and beautiful surroundings, is certainly much more enjoyable.
The natural conditions of production
This tourist region comprises six vineyards, but each of them has a Mediterranean climate with hot and dry summers and mild, rainy winters. The average annual temperature is around 16 °C and rainfall is 800- 1000 mm. The geology is typically karst and varied soil - many types are found, but brown soil and red soil dominate the region. There are many places on the karst with an abundance of stone, and this land over re - cent years is successfully being converted into vineyards by using modern mechaniza - tion.
Most of the vineyards are located on the Pelješac peninsula, where there are many well-known locations facing the sea - eg. Dingač, Postup, Viganj, etc., which receive additional reflection from the sea's surface and thus have very favourable conditions for the accumulation of sugar in the grapes. On the islands and in the Konvale vinyards the situation is similar - the vineyards are returning to such locations. White grape varieties are planted in most fields, due to lower temperatures and higher humidity fa - vourable to the characteristics of their wines. In the coastal areas larger surfaces suitable for vineyards are located in the valley of the Neretva river and Konavle area.
Varieties and their wines and the most important manufacturers
The abundance and dominance of indig - enous varieties is a characteristic of the Dubrovnik region too; Mali Plavac and Pošip are represented here in most vineyards. In recent years, other, mainly world-famous varieties, are being planted here, but they still cannot threaten the dominance of this duo. Production of Plavac Mali here, compared to central Dalmatia, is grown in the Dubrovnik region to an even greater extent, so that famous vineyards on Pelješac are almost of one variety. On these, elevated and southfacing terrains facing the sea, Plavac Mali gives the best potential quality and therefore, the best variety and quality wines come from the region. Extremely full-bodied and dense, strong and aromatic, intensely coloured red wine has become the hallmark of many local wineries, so that this sort has no real competition. Kaštela's Crljenak is a variety that was grown here even in the 16th century, then it virtually disappeared from Croatian vineyards, and after discovering that this variety is identical to American Zinfandel, which has solved the mystery of its origin, the interest in its planting has increased again. Nowadays large vineyards of this variety can be found on Pelješac and in Konavle, and the first wines have already arrived on the market.
wines
According to the first assessment of this wine, we can say that the variety has met expectations and that in addition to Plavac Mali its offspring Crljenak will be of great quality too. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon have been present along the coast for a long time and over the last few years they are being planted and on the islands too. Their quality is unquestionable, here too their wines are of high quality, but nevertheless it is difficult to compete with production of Plavac in the often extreme and difficult terrain. Over the last years Syrah (Shiraz) was introduced, being mostly mixed with other varieties, but it also justified high expectations. Of the other red wines, we should mention Plavina, which is often Plavac's companion, and it ferments together. Vranac is a leading variety in neighboring Montenegro, but has also been cultivated here for a long time. In a few cases varietal wines are produced, they usually get mixed with other red varieties of the region, primarily Plavac Mali.
For the last twenty years, Pošip has been the area's leading white variety, which is primarily due to its exceptional quality and adaptability. Its provenance was proved through DNA analysis; it originated from the island of Korčula, where it is being produced to this day. It is of an excellent quality and according to many, Pošip is of the highest quality of all Southern whites, because in addition to the fullness and high alcohol percentage, it is well-balanced with a nice aroma. Maraština, or more often locally called Rukatac is a variety which is represented in the area to a greater extent, compared with other parts of Dalmatia. There are several wine varieties whose quality varies, as it is quite challenging to cultivate them in those locations. It makes excellent sherries and is sometimes cultivated for the production of dessert wines. Grk variety is one of the natives of the area, whose origin intrigues (namely, one of the assumptions is that is of Greek origin, hence the name, or that it came to the island since the time of the Greek colonization of the Adriatic, 2-4 century B.C). Grk has a great quality - it undoubtedly has huge potential, but it is grown in a very limited space. It gives exceptional, real southern wines, strong and full, yet balanced, of specific aroma and flavour. Of the other white varieties, we should mention Cetinka, which is a widespread variety, but may provide unusually fresh and light wines for the region, and is much sought after, and Trbljan, a high quantity variety that often occurs in domestic and cheap wine.
In the Dubrovnik area, there is one more unique variety, Malvasia Dubrovnik - known and appreciated for centuries. It provides the highest category of white wines, full and strong, very aromatic, and has exceptional potential for the production of fortified sweet wine - these are wines that regularly receive the highest ratings. The importance of Malvasia in Dubrovnik lies in the fact that this variety of wine had a special treatment - in the Republic of Dubrovnik the price of other wines was limited while the prices for Malvasia were freely formed. DNA-analysis showersd later on that the same variety was found in Sicily (Malvasia delle Lipari) and some other places in the Mediterranean. This type is rare, but highly valued everywhere, and today it is fully revitalized in Konavle and there are a few notable wines on the market.
In recent years a large number of small producers prospered here more than anywhere else in Croatia. The credit for this goes primarily to Plavac Mali, so that those who produce this wine are the most numerous.
There are almost no producers on Pelješac today who do not offer Plavac, and this wine in recent years has led to the unprecedented expansion of vineyards in certain locations. Vineyards are being planted, new ground conquered, modern technology introduced in the wine cellars, so we can say that today's best Croatian wines come from the Pelješac peninsula. Among the first to produce superior Plavac, even during the socialist period, were agricultural cooperatives Dingač and Postup Donja Banda which produce them even today, but they have very strong competition. On the market today Niko Bura and Mara Mrgudić offer excellent Plavac Mali wine (some already legendary vintage wines and highly valued too), Grgić Wines Ltd. (the famous Croatian winemaker from California Miljenko Mike Grgich produces highly valued Plavac Mali and Pošip at his winery in Trstenik), Miloš Skaramuca and Matuško are among the first private producers, they had a few notable harvests, and to that group also belong Miličić, Radović, Kiridžija and Poljanić. There are a few more of them who have produced excellent Plavac, we should mention the new - primarily Saints Hills winery with excellent Dingač, Korta Katarina with very well-received Plavac and Pošip, and Terra Rota with Plavac from new locations, with karst reclamation. But the Peninsula is getting conquered by other varieties too, and so we should mention the winery Mokalo, owned by US-Croatian owners (Mrgudić- Benmosche), which produces Zinfandel, from the beautiful vineyards in Viganj.
The most famous and the largest manufacturers of Pošip are on Korčula, and those are agricultural cooperatives Čara and Smokvica, which began with the production of these varieties in the fifties of the last century. They offer some very popular and sought after wines (Pošip Čara, Marco Polo, Centurion) at reasonable prices. One of the wineries that should also be mentioned is a small winery Toreta in Smokvica, which besides offering Pošip also offers Rukatac and other wines, and Krajančić and Kunjasa, local winemakers, who recently appeared on the market. On